At the 2025 Academy Awards, Coralie Fargeat’s horror film “The Substance” won an Oscar for Best Hair and Makeup Design. However, producer Nicolas Royer has now spoken out about tensions within the hair and makeup team both before and after the ceremony.
Typically, an entire team does not receive an Academy Award nomination. Instead, each Hair and Makeup nomination is limited to three nominees. This restriction acknowledges the intricate collaboration between prosthetics, hair design, and conventional makeup in transforming actors into characters. The decision of the nominees is made by the Academy’s Makeup and Hair Branch Executive Committee based on submitted materials and interviews.
In the case of “The Substance,” the nominees were special makeup effects designer Pierre-Olivier Persin, key makeup artist Stéphanie Guillon, and key hair artist Marilyne Scarselli. Frédérique Arguello, the key hair artist and department head, has expressed dissatisfaction with being passed over for Scarselli, her assistant. Both artists were part of the team that won BAFTAs and Critics Choice Awards.
Royer has defended Scarselli from being blacklisted, emphasizing the different roles played by Arguello and Scarselli on the film. The special makeup effects were a crucial element in transforming Demi Moore’s character in “The Substance.” The challenges of applying prosthetics on the day of filming highlighted the importance of the makeup and hair design in bringing the character to life.
Overall, the tensions within the hair and makeup team reflect the complexities of the film industry. The success of “The Substance” underscores the importance of recognizing the contributions of all team members in creating a visually impactful film.
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